Escape to the countryside – Orchha

Our train from Agra was a local one with hard bench seats, air conditioning in the form of ceiling fans that didn’t work, and a crowd of people all trying to steal your seat. But what a relief to leave the big crowded cities behind and get out into the pretty countryside, water buffalos wallowing in pools, cattle egrets stepping around in the grass, iridescent-winged rollers flying by, and the colourfully dressed people working in the fields or tending their animals.

We detrained at Jhansi, the site of a dreadful massacre of 5000 native Indians by the British. We didn’t sense any resentment, unless you could count the insane driving. Piling into tuk-tuks, we were driven to Orchha, all of us amazed at the number of people crowded into some of the tuks-tuks along the busy road. I counted at least 14 in one. Every tuk-tuk driver was hell bent on being the first one to wherever; they all drove like lunatics, passing each other and anything else that got in their way. Our drivers were somewhat more moderate, thank goodness.

Our accommodation was an air-conditioned tent with its own bathroom at a beautiful resort, and the first thing most of us did after our sweaty journey was leap into the pool. At sunset we wandered down to the river, and were set upon by the village children. Then, a fascinating, very special experience - we watched uncountable numbers of people pouring in to the local temple for a Puja ceremony, complete with music and dancing by the girls and women, who tried to get us to join in.

Next morning Rob went out with his bird book and caught the interest and attention of the menfolk. A line of colourful saris were drying along a fence, and processions of people filed past heading back to the temple. An exploration of the Raj Mahal palace followed. It took 22 years to build, employed thousands of workers, and is a mix of Hindu and Muslim architecture – minarets and towers. We saw the King’s quarters and the rooms for his concubines, and climbed to the top for panoramic views of the lush green countryside dotted with brick edifices. Vultures soaring overhead completed the picture.

The sweat was dripping off us, it was so hot, and it continued that way for our visit to Taragram, a local paper-making enterprise employing mainly women. Next day we visited a small village and watched pots being made by hand, and sat with the children in their open-sided school room. The local houses had clay slab rooves and the walls were painted light blue to keep the mosquitoes at bay. The newer concrete houses proved to not be as cool as the original houses. In the late afternoon we attended a cooking class, and watched (and later ate) chai masala, an aubergine dish, raita, rice pilau and chappatis being made. The memory of all that delicious food makes me long for the genuine tastes of India again.